Taprobane Island, Sri Lanka
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Taprobane Island is located 200 yards off the southern coast of Sri Lanka in
the centre of Weligama bay, which in turn is 3 1/2 hours south of the capital of
Colombo and 30 minutes south of the provincial capital of Galle, a town
designated by the United Nations as a world heritage site.
Access to the island from the coast is usually made by wading through
the surf on foot, or by some on elephant or sedan chair! Most visitors
arrive in Sri Lanka through the international airport situated 30
minutes to the north of Colombo; and then after a day spent shopping and
sightseeing in Colombo proceed to Weligama by motor car or train, both
of which hug the west coast shoreline; the journey through coconut
plantations, coastal villages markets and long deserted beaches provides
an immediate insight into the island of serendipity.
Taprobane Island itself is approximately 2 1/2 acres, is similar in shape to
Sri Lanka and is one of the reasons that its original owner gave it the name
Taprobane (which was the original Greek name for Ceylon). There is nothing
between the island and the south pole, and it is a sight that nobody forgets on
turning the corner when coming into Weligama bay. In his book The Reefs of
Taprobane, Arthur C. Clarke describes "the scene as being so peaceful and so
completely relaxing.. that I managed to escape the tyranny of the typewriter...
the equal of San Michele... the place where I learned to wear a sarong." Most
guests echo similar sentiments and, to all, it is very much "an isle of dreams",
or as Paul Bowles reflected when he was the owner: "an embodiment of the
innumerable fantasies that have flitted through my mind since childhood".
History
Taprobane Island as we see it today was created in 1922 by Count de
Mauny - Talvande, a gentlemen of leisure, furniture maker and a descendent of
one of Napoleon's Generals. In his book The Gardens of Taprobane, he describes
his first encounter; "shall I ever forget that morning in September, when, quite
by chance I first saw Weligama Bay, and in the centre of it the red granite
rock, covered with palms and jungle scrub, rising from the Indian Ocean: an
emerald in a setting of pink coral. I swam across the narrow strait, scrambled
over rocks and briers, and reached the top of the rock. The view from here was
admirable: below me was the Bay outspreading its long arms towards the ocean;
until they were lost in the haze of the far distance; the coral reef, sparkling
with the diamonds of the spray; the sea, turquoise blue, streaked with
amethyst-purple. Beyond, far beyond, the bare horizon; there was nothing between
me and the South Pole."
Count de Mauny was to make Taprobane his home for the next 30 years and
during his time played host to Kings, Statesmen, Aristocracy, Governors and
Magnates; the gardens and neo paladian house becoming a drawing point to all
those entranced by beauty.
In his diary, in Febuary 1932, he describes the arrival of H.E. The Governor:
"A burst of cheering rises from four thousand throats. Spectators from all
the country-side have gathered along the sands in front of Taprobane; thousands
of mutlicoloured stars spangle the sand. Two thousand men, tom-toms, drums and
flutes head the march; the dancers come next, wearing grotesque masks; the
"fire-eaters" come next, holding their burning brands between their teeth; a
hundred torch-bearers follow. Fifty catamarans, transformed into gondolas,
junks, miniature men-of-war, all garlanded with festoons of many coloured
lights, furrow the Bay and skim past the Island. Songs and native music rises
above the slapping clatter of paddles; rockets break the night in columns of
fire; the gun booms. The crowd scatters silently in the night, and the Temple
bells, in the jungle, peal out the close of the day of full moon."
On his death in Jaffna in the late 1940s, the island became a little
neglected until bought by the American writer Paul Bowles, who was equally
captivated by its fantasy and who was to own it for 4 years, during this time he
wrote the Spider House; it was only on the insistence of his wife that he moved
back to Morocco; and once again the island became neglected for many years until
a brief period in the 1970s when the son of the painter Balthus held court there
and captivated many a young visitor! It was not, however, until 1995 when the
present owner moved in, that the process of restoring the island to its heyday
was begun, a process which is still continuing.
When is the best time to visit Sri Lanka?
Traditionally, the season is from December to mid May: these are the
driest months in the west, south and central part of the country; however in
recent years, off season months have been very pleasant too; and during off
season months, hotels and beaches tend to be less congested. The Kandy Perehera
in August is well worth visiting, and in that month there is a brief respite in
the monsoon weather. From December to March the temperature is around 30
How to get to Taprobane
Sri Lankan Air, Emirates, Gulf Air, Cathay Pacific, Thai International
and Singapore Airlines all have regular flights to Colombo. We can arrange
inland transport from the airport or from a Colombo hotel to Taprobane. We do
recommend, however, that you only make the journey in daylight. It is also
possible to catch the train from Colombo to Weligama (the journey time of 3 and
half hours is about the same as a journey by vehicle). If travelling by Sri
Lankan Airlines it is essential to reconfirm your return flight as otherwise it
is highly likely to be cancelled.
Health
Unlike its Indian neighbour, Sri Lanka is by comparison a very clean
country and most travellers do not suffer in the same way. Most illnesses are
more likely to occur from sunstroke and excess alcohol! Good protection from the
sun is essential and it is best to buy any lotions at home. It is also better to
buy mosquito repellents and post mosquito lotions before you arrive. Mosquito
repellent should be applied just before dusk.
Malaria, Hepatitis and Dengue fever do exist in the country, so for those who
like to be prudent ask your doctor for information. If travelling with children,
a course of antibiotics should also be packed. Taprobane does have a First Aid
kit for minor ailments.
Things to pack
Sri Lanka is a very informal country, so jackets are not an essential
piece of clothing; so it is unnecessary to bring to Taprobane as Paul Bowles
did; ten double breasted suits, a cook, maid, manservant and an upright piano.
Shorts and a t-shirt are adequate in most places. For gourmet travellers,
however, fine marmalade, mustards, cheese, olive oil and vinegar are better
brought from home; as in any ex-British colony, Marmite is widely available, as
is Vegemite.
It is best to buy Spirits on arrival from the Duty Free shop at Colombo
airport. Wine and champagne can be ordered in advance from the sunhouse and
delivered to the island.
Food
Our chefs will discuss your needs on a daily basis: Sri Lankan curries,
salads, seafood, fusion and western foods are all available. We have never had
any complaints in guests being underfed!
Facilities
Taprobane has a swimming pool, seawater rockpool, shaded verandahs,
boogie boards, board games, music system (bring your own choice of CDs),
library.
Security
Taprobane is situated in the south of the country; it is the area
furthest from the Tamil conflict. In addition, the Tigers have never been known
to target tourists so guests should not be unduly worried. We employ
professional security guards who maintain a 24 hour watch at the main gate.
There is a safe in the house where we recommend guests deposit passports, money
and valuables. There is no land telephone on Taprobane. Cellular phones do work,
however, and those with call roaming facilities should have no problem in making
or receiving calls. Emails can be sent and received.
Children
Children are welcome on Taprobane; however, for swimming in the sea,
adult supervision is essential.
Shopping
Shopping around Taprobane is limited, there is a main street in
Weligama and visits can be arranged to local gem merchants. Most guests prefer
to shop in Colombo either at the beginning or the end of their stay.
"You ought to be satisfied; for if you do not accomplish anything else in
life, you will have created a thing of beauty, perhaps unique in the world. It
is something to be proud of."
...Her grace the Duchess of Sutherland writing to Count de Mauny
"The surroundings-situation, views and atmosphere-being unique, the house
had to be unique also. The house is the centre of interest in the picture; the
gardens, the sea, the panorama, the distant views, are its light and shadows. It
was important to remember that house and gardens were inseparable parts of a
whole-and that they could not be separated without spoiling the whole, above all
it must not overwhelm the island...after much thought I decided that it must be
octagonal: this shape would give eight facades to the house, each with a
different aspect and an admirable view. Nothing would be allowed to interfere
with the panoramic vista, and anyone standing at the entrance would be able to
see one of the finest views of its kind in the world"
...Count de Mauny describing his reason for building not a real house with an
interior, but a pavilion which would be a continuation of the landscape outside,
and from every part of which there would be multiple views.
The house currently has 5 bedrooms and 5 bathrooms, huge verandahs and
balconies and many a secluded spot to get lost in. There are 2 houseboys, a
steward, a cook, gardener and 2 uniformed security guards. Local drivers are on
hand to take you on any local excursion, shopping trip or sightseeing tour.
"What to do?"
Once on Taprobane, many guests hardly leave the island save to swim
around it. The area however does have some interesting sites/ most of which can
be done as day trips.
- Tea Plantations - the area around Galle has quite a few lowland
plantations and excursions can be arranged.
- Old Forts - Galle and Matara have well preserved Dutch Forts and lively
markets.
- Beaches - Unawatuna, Talpe and Merissa are within easy reach. The beaches
of Tangalle make a very pleasant day trip.
- The Stilt Fishermen - sitting like large cranes perched in the sea, these
fishermen provide a splendid photo opportunity and are only a few kilometers
from Taprobane.
- Devil Dances - local devil dances are still occasionally performed in the
villages inland from Taprobane, ask the staff if any are scheduled during your
stay.
- Diving - can be arranged at Unawatuna, Weligama and Dickwella. For those
who want to learn to dive P.A.D.I. courses can be arranged.
- Surfing - the beaches at Merissa are very good for body surfing. More
serious surfing can be found in Hikkaduwa.
- Adventure Sports - White water rafting, trekking, mountain biking can be
arranged through a local company www.adventureslanka.com
- Overnight trips can be arranged to the National Parks of Yala and Uda
Walawe, the tropical rainforest of Sinharajah, or the overnight climb to the
dawn from the top of Adams Peak.
- If there are enough of you, ask the staff to organise a game of fireball
hockey on the beach... or just join in a game of cricket with the local teams.
- Temples and relics - there are a number within easy reach of Taprobane.
- Dining - if wanting a night out, a good excursion is to go and watch the
sunset from the ramparts of Galle Fort and then book for dinner at The Sun
House, followed possibly by a nightcap or more at one of the seaside dives at
Unawatuna.
- Antique Shops - the village of Ambalangoda has several antique shops
offering Dutch colonial furniture.
Price: Upon request.
Size: 2 Acres
Location: Weligama Bay, Sri Lanka
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