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Guide
to Carnival in Rio
Travelers Digest
Looking
for A Place to Stay While in Rio?
Balls
& Parties - Street
Carnival Festivities - 2005
Planning Guide The
Samba Parade
The Samba School Parade at Rio´s Sambodrome is
something everybody has to experience at least once in life. The
event is broadcast live to several countries, and all Brazilian
states. Watching on TV is cool, but not half as much fun as being
there. You have to mingle with the crowd, sweat, maybe even march
with a samba school.
Unlike Street Carnival the Samba Parade is not free. Tickets
are actually quite expensive, but more than worth the investment.
Fourteen special group schools march on Carnival Sunday and
Monday, seven each night. The parade starts at 9 p.m. and goes on
until sunlight the next day, around 6-7 a.m. This samba marathon
is also a fierce competition. Each year a school is downgraded
from special to access group, and vice-versa.
In case you are getting completely mixed up, Samba Schools are
not teaching institutions. A Samba School is an association of
people from the same neighborhood, usually a working class
community (or favela) in a suburban area. They get
together on a regular basis for rehearsals and samba nights. Samba
schools provide valuable jobs to the community, that is employed
year-round in the production of costumes and floats.
Each year schools choose a different theme. In the year 2000,
for instance, schools highlighted different periods of Brazilian
history, celebrating the country's 500th anniversary. In 2004, to
celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Sambodrome, samba schools
were allowed to re-edit their favorite Carnival themes from the
past.
Samba Schools may take to the Parade anything from 3,000 to
5,000 members, and from 6 to 8 floats. They try to illustrate the
theme chosen. All costumes and floats are original, made from
scratch each year. You may think of it as a tropical opera, or
rather, of several operas happening in a one night.
A Samba School has a period ranging from 60 to 75 minutes to
make it through the runway. This means that each member will
actually spend only about 25-30 minutes tops in the Sambodrome.
The experience is so intense, though, that the memories last a
lifetime.
Several aspects are judged by a jury of experts chosen by LIESA,
the league of Samba Schools. Judges are strategically
stationed in odd and even sectors, to make sure the schools do
their best all the way through.The 6 schools that score best earn
the coveted honor of marching again the following weekend, at the
Winners Parade on Saturday.
Of course all Cariocas consider themselves experts when it
comes to judging a samba school. Many keep a personal score to
compare (and inevitably disagree) with the final result. Cariocas
support their favorite school just like they support their soccer
team - with a lot of passion. In Portuguese you do not say you
support Mangueira or Flamengo. You say what would translate simply
to I am Mangueira or I am Flamengo.
The Samba School
Schools are divided into alas (wings or sections), with people
wearing the same costumes. Abre-alas is the first group, limited
to 15 people or less. They are in charge of greeting the audience,
setting the mood, and introducing the theme. Choreographies are
often quite elaborate.
In-between wings you there are floats (carros alegóricos),
that carry special guests named destaques. Floats are a real feast
to the eyes. Many have special effects - a bird with flapping
wings, a dragon spitting smoke, etc. The size is limited by the
narrow tree-lined streets that give access to the Sambodrome.
Oversized floats would be at the risk of losing part of their
decoration even before entering the runway, or getting stuck along
the way.
Floats may be motorized, and have mechanical parts.Most are
still pushed by men from the community, either in T-shirts, or
wearing costumes designed to blend in. Before ideas of
exploitation of cheap labor and other indignities start to pop in
your mind, try to understand that everybody is more than happy to
contribute in whichever way they can. Being a part of the samba
parade is an honor, and these volunteers would probably look
awkward in a baiana costume, anyway.
Even though complete nudity is not officially allowed,
sometimes floats carry topless or almost-naked beauties, male and
female. You get the idea: a little body paint, lots-a-glitter, a
smile... The best looking men and women are selected for these
special spots.The right stunt is a guaranteed headline the
following day, and some do not draw a line for a chance of few
seconds in the spotlight.
Other floatees have very sophisticated costumes. On the top of
the float the cherry is usually a floatee in an impossibly heavy
costume. They use cranes to get up there, of course. Imagine
trying to climb a ladder with an extra 100 pounds on your back!
Some alas are mandatory, and play a very important role in
overall performance of the school. Velha Guarda is
the group of men in the typical white suit and Panama hat,
representing the malandro, a traditional Carioca
character. They are usually the last ala to march, sometimes with
their female counterparts.
Ala das baianas is a wing with women dressed
in big round colonial-style skirts. It is one of the most colorful
and captivating of them all. These positions are reserved for
ladies from the community, and their (very expensive) costumes are
subsidized. Dozens of baianas spinning around always bring down
the house.
Porta-Bandeira and Mestre-Sala are the most
important couple in the school. Porta-bandeira is the lady that
carries the school flag with pride. Crowds stand and cheer as she
passes by. Her partner, the mestre-sala, has the job of drawing
everybody's attention to his queen. And they do that by performing
the most elaborate samba steps ever - seeing to believing. Samba
Schools also have a children-only sector. They have their own
version of the porta-bandeira and mestre-sala, and their dexterity
often equals or surpasses their adult counterparts.
The bateria (percussion band) sets
the beat. They are preceded by a queen ( or rainha
da bateria), that can be either a beauty from the
community or some TV star or VIP (girls fight fiercely for the
position). The vocalist is know as puxador, and
goes on a sound truck right behind the bateria.
Atravessar is a term used when the bateria and puxador
go out of synch, and when it happens the school inevitably loses
points. School members must also sing along the whole time, or
they will lose points in harmony. Evolution and Group
are two other aspects judged, the school must flow smoothly and
without any blank spaces.
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