Guide to Carnival in Rio
Travelers Digest

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Balls & Parties - Samba Parade - 2005 Planning Guide

Street Festivities

They may try to organize it, glamorize it, televise it, even industrialize it, but Carnival is something that comes deep from the fun-loving Carioca soul. It does not depend on any authority or sponsor to happen. Carnival in the streets is a living proof of this love. It's free, and everybody's welcome to participate!

Each neighborhood in Rio has its favorite Bandas (bun-dush) or Blocos (blo-cush). They consist of an orchestra marching along a pre-determined route, followed by hordes of enthusiastic samba dancers dressed in costumes, bathing suits, plain clothes, and even in drag. Blocos are usually smaller, attracting more of a neighborhood crowd.

The operation of a Banda is really quite simple. First people gather at some well known spot, such as a square or neighborhood bar. After a couple or more hours of concentration, the band starts marching its way down the streets. Do not miss the concentration part. Enjoy the show performed by drag queens and children, stopping cars and buses trying in vain to make their way through the crowds. Drivers caught in a Banda gridlock have nothing to do but relax and enjoy the moment.

When the band starts marching, stay a little ahead of the bulk of the crowd, or you will get stuck in the human mass. Marching right in front of floats or cars is not a good idea either. Stay close to the band in the back only if you have earplugs or you will go deaf...

Seniors and children of all ages also participate at Street Carnival, so this is the ideal time for the whole family to have a good time together! South-Side bands go out in the afternoon. The gathering usually starts around 4 p.m., making this the quintessential aprés-beach experience.

Major streets are closed down to traffic, bus routes are changed trying to avoid the inevitable jam... Some bands attract as over 10,000 participants. Most Bandas also have official T-shirts for sale on the spot for about $10, to help with the costs. They make great souvenirs, as they are sold only during Carnival days.

Bands come in all sizes and concepts. Smaller ones are sometimes called blocos. Although most follow a predetermined route, this is not like a golden rule. There is a Band called Concentra Mas Não Sai, where people do the samba, and drink their way through the afternoon without ever leaving their concentration. Cordão do Bola Preta, another favorite downtown Banda, is another exception. They go out on Friday morning, and finish the celebration with a feijoada lunch (a typical Brazilian bean stew).

Ipanema is home to three big Bandas. You may think we are being partial, but Banda de Ipanema is the most traditional neighborhood band in Rio. It was declared a cultural landmark by the city in 2004. The performance of drag queens is legendary, you must bring your camera.

Simpatia é Quase Amor is another Banda that became a tradition in Ipanema. It has a familiar atmosphere that we are sure you will enjoy! They start meeting way before Carnival, and choose the official theme with a contest, just like a samba school. Many participants march in the official T-shirt that helps to raise funds for the event. The band usually goes out twice: on Saturday a week before Carnival, and on Carnival Sunday. The gathering is at 4 p.m. at General Osório Square.

Monobloco starts at the end of Leblon Beach, and they march all the way to Posto 10 in Ipanema. Their rehearsals are quite popular. They only go out once, on Sunday, a week before Carnival. This is a really big Banda, with 10 thousand plus people.

Rola Preguiçosa is smaller, and concentrates on Av. Epitácio Pessoa, at the corner of Rua Maria Quitéria. Enjoy the view to the scenic Lagoa while you learn your samba steps! It goes out on Carnival Friday, at about 6 p.m.

Copacabana also has a number of interesting Bandas, most of them gathering along the beach. Banda da Sá Ferreira and Banda da Santa Clara are definitely worth checking out. When you go to any Banda or Carnival event do like the Cariocas. Don't wear flashy gold watches, or realistic-looking jewelry. We are sure you will have a great time every day!