|
Guide
to Carnival in Rio
Travelers Digest
Looking
for A Place to Stay While in Rio?
Balls
& Parties - Samba
Parade - 2005
Planning Guide
Street Festivities
They may try to organize it, glamorize it, televise it, even
industrialize it, but Carnival is something that comes deep from
the fun-loving Carioca soul. It does not depend on any authority
or sponsor to happen. Carnival in the streets is a living proof of
this love. It's free, and everybody's welcome to participate!
Each neighborhood in Rio has its favorite Bandas (bun-dush)
or Blocos (blo-cush). They consist of an orchestra
marching along a pre-determined route, followed by hordes of
enthusiastic samba dancers dressed in costumes, bathing suits,
plain clothes, and even in drag. Blocos are usually smaller,
attracting more of a neighborhood crowd.
The operation of a Banda is really quite simple. First people
gather at some well known spot, such as a square or neighborhood
bar. After a couple or more hours of concentration, the
band starts marching its way down the streets. Do not miss the
concentration part. Enjoy the show performed by drag
queens and children, stopping cars and buses trying in vain to
make their way through the crowds. Drivers caught in a Banda
gridlock have nothing to do but relax and enjoy the moment.
When the band starts marching, stay a little ahead of the bulk
of the crowd, or you will get stuck in the human mass. Marching
right in front of floats or cars is not a good idea either. Stay
close to the band in the back only if you have earplugs or you
will go deaf...
Seniors and children of all ages also participate at Street
Carnival, so this is the ideal time for the whole family to have a
good time together! South-Side bands go out in the afternoon. The
gathering usually starts around 4 p.m., making this the
quintessential aprés-beach experience.
Major streets are closed down to traffic, bus routes are
changed trying to avoid the inevitable jam... Some bands attract
as over 10,000 participants. Most Bandas also have official
T-shirts for sale on the spot for about $10, to help with the
costs. They make great souvenirs, as they are sold only during
Carnival days.
Bands come in all sizes and concepts. Smaller ones are
sometimes called blocos. Although most follow a predetermined
route, this is not like a golden rule. There is a Band called Concentra
Mas Não Sai, where people do the samba, and drink their
way through the afternoon without ever leaving their
concentration. Cordão do Bola Preta, another
favorite downtown Banda, is another exception. They go out on
Friday morning, and finish the celebration with a feijoada lunch
(a typical Brazilian bean stew).
Ipanema is home to three big Bandas. You
may think we are being partial, but Banda de Ipanema
is the most traditional neighborhood band in Rio. It was declared
a cultural landmark by the city in 2004. The performance of drag
queens is legendary, you must bring your camera.
Simpatia é Quase Amor is another Banda that
became a tradition in Ipanema. It has a familiar atmosphere that
we are sure you will enjoy! They start meeting way before
Carnival, and choose the official theme with a contest, just like
a samba school. Many participants march in the official T-shirt
that helps to raise funds for the event. The band usually goes out
twice: on Saturday a week before Carnival, and on Carnival Sunday.
The gathering is at 4 p.m. at General Osório Square.
Monobloco starts at the end of Leblon Beach,
and they march all the way to Posto 10 in Ipanema. Their
rehearsals are quite popular. They only go out once, on Sunday, a
week before Carnival. This is a really big Banda, with 10 thousand
plus people.
Rola Preguiçosa is smaller, and concentrates
on Av. Epitácio Pessoa, at the corner of Rua Maria Quitéria.
Enjoy the view to the scenic Lagoa while you learn your samba
steps! It goes out on Carnival Friday, at about 6 p.m.
Copacabana also has a number of interesting Bandas, most
of them gathering along the beach. Banda da Sá Ferreira
and Banda da Santa Clara are definitely
worth checking out. When you go to any Banda or Carnival event do
like the Cariocas. Don't wear flashy gold watches, or
realistic-looking jewelry. We are sure you will have a great time
every day!
|