Amtrak Travel

Written By David Wilkening

Travelers Digest

When I boarded the Sunset Limited one recent afternoon in Orlando, I had a sudden panic attack. Nothing to read. But it was no problem. The train was stocked with copies of the Harvard Business Review.

Wait a minute? The prestigious business publication on a train?

Amtrak might not always get its proper respect, but the often-maligned railroad may have other surprises for those who have not ridden the rails lately.

I found that out while taking the Sunset Limited from Orlando to New Orleans for Mardi Gras, and a ride a few months back aboard Amtrak's premier performer, the Coast Starlight from Los Angeles to Seattle (complete with wine tasting events).

There are no guarantees of perfect train trips, of course, and I 'm sure there are horror stories. But my trips, and some conversations with Amtrak itself, helped me re-evaluate some common myths.

Here are a dozen of them:

Myth: Amtrak is always late.

In my most recent trip to New Orleans, the train lumbered to a stop just before 3 o'clock at Orlando's high-ceilinged station and arrived promptly the next morning at 8 a.m. But Amtrak itself admits it is not perfect.

"We do better in the Northeast, like between Washington D.C., and Boston, where we own the track. We're normally about 90 percent on time there. But the problem outside the northeast corridor is that we can get bumped by freight trains," said a spokeswoman.

Overall, however, Amtrak's on time performance last year was 76.9 percent, compared to 75.1 the previous year. Not perfect, certainly, but getting better.

Restrooms are always dirty. The trains themselves are no gems of cleanliness.

The restrooms I encountered were cramped but clean, though this is among Amtrak's biggest complaints.

"Most people don't complain about the standard sleeper, but when you get hundreds of people going through a coach car, it can be difficult to keep clean," the spokeswoman said.

As for the train itself, a clear test is the windows. They used to be flyspecked and hazy. Not on my recent trips, however.

Amtrak does not go to most major cities.

Actually, it goes to 500 major cities in 46 states, with Nashville a notable though unexplainable exception.

Because Amtrak has no metal detectors, and other screening, it is not safe from terrorist attacks.

Amtrak has its own security police force of 325 officers who are often plain-clothes operatives and who legally perform the same duties of police officers. Terrorists could not take over a train as they do an airplane because locomotives are locked from the inside. And as of this writing, trains have been spared terrorism.

Service is bad aboard Amtrak.

A spokesman said one of the biggest complaints about rail service is not bad service, but that there's not enough trains available. My own experience was that service was much better than the airlines. Our sleeping car attendant, Jackie Martin, lived up to her title of attendant. She made sure everyone knew where to get off, for example. She even helped get the luggage aboard.

Amtrak's food is awful.

I can recall years ago riding an Amtrak train when all you could buy were microwaveable sandwiches. That's changed. Most of the food is prepared on board, according to Amtrak. In my own experience, I'd rate the food today on the level of a good diner.

"In addition to most menus having beef, fish or chicken, our entrees generally offer vegetarian dishes as well," an Amtrak spokeswoman said.

Amtrak is not convenient.
 
Compare it to the airlines. Unlike flying, train travel only requires you to be there before the train leaves. There is no time-consuming and often redundant security measure such as metal detectors. And no one will  riticize you for carrying all you want on board, though you can also check luggage. Finally, if your train is late and jeopardizes your connection, you can inform the conductor. Connecting trains are sometimes held and Amtrak may provide alternate transportation for anyone with guaranteed connections.

It takes forever to get anywhere by a train.

That's a generality, of course, and it depends how you view it. But perhaps Amtrak's premier route is the 2,210 mile Empire Builder running from Seattle to Chicago. It takes about two and a half days, so you'll have judge whether that's too long.

You can't get any rest on a train.

I have spent time in coach cars, and seats are more comfortable than airplane seats. You also have more seat movement. But if you want some real rest, a better option is to rent sleeping accommodations. Once you get used to the swaying movements of the train, and the occasionally lonely nighttime whistle, it's as comfortable as a hotel.albeit the space is a lot smaller.

There's nothing to do on a train.

In my experience, if you want to talk, there's no friendlier place for starting up a conversation than a train trip. You can also read, of course, but a main occupation is looking out the window at the passing parade of little league fields, small towns, flashing train signs, and thick green forests. Sure, train-riders also find a sea of wet clothes hanging up behind run-down homes, as well as junkyards with rusting cars, but where else in the world might you pass right by a scene such as a cement truck being readied to do its daily business?

Automation has been lost on old-fashioned Amtrak.

Many train stations offer a Quick-Trak machine where tickets bought on the Internet can be picked up at the station. The rail line's Internet link is very easy to operate, and more than a quarter of riders now book online, according to Amtrak.

Amtrak is too expensive.

In my last trip aboard Amtrak, the cost for my wife and myself was under $170, including all meals and a sleeper car, for a one-way Orlando-New Orleans trip of about 17 hours. We took advantage of a two-for-one offer. That is not valid anymore, but Amtrak features frequent discount prices. All in all, I'd definitely call it a bargain.