CATALINA ISLAND, Calif. -- If your perception of a perfect place
is
somewhere you can't rent a car, or if you like the idea of golf carts
greatly outnumbering automobiles, this is your island paradise.
Of course,
Catalina Island is more than just a hikers, bikers
and auto-haters haven. It's a place for lovers.
The
Four Preps confirmed that in "Twenty-six Miles," no. 2 on
the hit parade more than 40 years ago.
"Twenty-six miles across the sea, Santa Catalina is the place to be," sang
the Preps, who immortalized it as "the island of romance."
Romance is
not always what it seems, however. And from the
mainland of San Pedro, it's not 26 but 21.8 miles, according to the local
chamber of commerce.
Depending whether you arrive by helicopter or boat, it might be 22 or 23 or
maybe even 28 miles from the coast of California. But who is counting?
The island
with gently rolling terrain is only 21 miles long and
eight miles wide. Its striking feature when seen from the sea are two
2,000-foot high mountains -- Mt. Orizaba and Mount Black Jack.
It's pleasant
climate is such that the daytime temperature
rarely goes above 80 degrees in the summer, and seldom below 50 degrees in
the winter, making it an all-year round attraction -- though
summers are
the most popular for visitors.
The best time
to go is in the spring when glorious hues of green
and yellow wildflowers dot the hillsides of the mountains, which overlook
the quaint, hilly harbor of Avalon with its array of colorful boats and
schooners.
The island's
main city is Avalon, a one-square-mile city where
the main drag, Crescent Avenue, is filled with pastel-colored restaurants
and shops reflecting the colorful clay tile manufactured here in the 1930s.
Incorporated in 1913, Avalon's population of 3,200 in the summer and on
weekends swells to more than 10,000 people.
Catalina Island was a popular tourist attraction more than a century ago,
and even earlier than that during the gold rush days that started in 1849.
But William Wrigley Jr. of chewing game fame brought it to the nationwide
attention in the 20th century.
He bought Catalina Island in 1919. He made it spring training camp for his
second avocation, baseball's Chicago Cubs, who had spring training camp here
for almost 30 years.
The baseball field in Catalina was built to match the dimensions of Wrigley
Field in Chicago. Visitors can still play golf where baseball players used
to tee off at the Catalina Island Country club.
When Wrigley bought the island, there was only one car here.
Autos were limited by law until 1973, when they became even more uncommon
after city officials obtained special dispensation from the California State
Legislature to make it the only city in the state allowed to regulate thenumber of cars on its streets.
Today, there are 535 autos on the island and 1,240 golf carts with a huge
variety of vehicle modifications, according to the Catalina Island Visitors
Bureau.
Permits for vehicles here are issued on a two-for-one basis -- twovehicles must leave the island before a permit for a new one is issued.
Talk about "California Dreamin"...or car-conscious California nightmare: The
wait to bring an automobile here is about 25 years.
Wrigley was not the island's only famous resident.
Western writer Zane Grey built a pueblo-style home on the hillside
overlooking Avalon Bay in 1926 and spent much of the rest of his life here
writing and fishing. His home is now a popular hotel.
Romance or not -- The Four Preps sang they would come here via water
wings
carrying their guitars -- visitors first have to get to the island.
The fastest way is a 14-minute trip via Helicopter departing from both San
Pedro and Long Island boat terminals. Fares are under $150, round trip.
Flights leave hourly.
Upon arrival at Catalina, Avalon is less than a mile away or a healthy walk
along the seashore. Helicopter pilots will also radio in mid-flight for
taxis, which cost about $7 to Avalon for two passengers.
The most popular way to get here, however, is by boat, an hour or so long
trip depending on whether visitors take speedier or slower vessels.
Catalina Cruises offers a 700-passenger jet boat, claiming it is the
smoothest and fastest ride to the island. The jet takes about 55 minutes to
arrive. Catalina Cruises' Classic Fleet boat takes two hours.
The fare for
the Jet is under $50, round-trip. Passengers shouldcheck in 45 minutes before departure.
Crossings in the summer are generally smooth.
The boats
sell food, beverages and cocktails.
Dolphins and
whales are frequently spotted, and boat captains
will often slow down for passengers to get a better look.
Families are frequent visitors here, but the island maintains its specialallure for couples.
Catalina is especially romantic during a full moon. A tip: check newspaper
weather sections for lunar phases to help plan a romantic adventure far from
the maddening crowd.
What's a little romance without bicycles?
At Brown's Bikes, rates range from $5 an hour for single speed bicycles to$60 or more a day for six-speed tandems. Diamondback mountain bikes are alsoavailable with helmets provided. Some bicycles have baby seats and
strollers.
How about a secluded romantic cove? For those who want to bring their own
food, Catalina Island Kayak & Snorkel provides a double kayak with a picnic
cooler and complete snorkel gear for two. The four-hour getaway is less than
$60 for two people.
Romance flourishes everywhere. For example, there's a casino tour that takes
in the Avalon Theatre with its Art Deco murals and classic 1929 theater pipe
organ. Visitors seeing the world-famous casino ballroom can only imagine how
many romances began here.
Another inexpensive tour less than $10 a person is a Moonlight Drive aboardan open-air tram that includes nostalgic music and great harbor views.
Drivers provide historical highlights.
For intimate getaways, visitors can travel through the island's interior to
the crystalline aqua-green waters of Little Harbor. Nestled among palmtrees, Little Harbor campground is built on the site of an ancient nativeAmerican Village. The campground is a good base for day hiking and the
pristine beach is ideal for beachcombers. The campground has toilets, coldshowers, barbecue pits, fire rings, telephones and picnic tables.
Lovers Cove, Avalon's marine preserve, teams with colorful marine life.
Because the fish are protected, they often will take food from the hands of
snorkelers who can also encounter sea lions.
Horseback riding is always associated with romance. The Catalina Stables
offers various rides, including the city slicker, a two day and one night
camping experience on horseback. Riders through the interior of the island
usually see a herd of wild buffalo. The base price is $385 per person.
Beyond the one-square-mile city of Avalon, Catalina features a vast
untouched wilderness area where bikers and hikers can see American Bison
roaming freely. Other wildlife includes bald eagles and the Catalina Island
Fox. A variety of guided tours are available.
Catalina Adventure Tours offers various combinations of glass bottom boats
and harbor cruises.
Other adventures include an undersea tour six feet under the water aboard
the Starlight or Emerald submersible vessels that reveal a wide array of
bright orange garibaldi, spotted calico bass, half moons, rockfish and bat
rays, among others.
In the evening, popular local entertainment includes jazz at The Blue
Parrot, which has an excellent view of the sparkling harbor at night. There'
s karaoke at El Galleon Restaurant on Crescent Avenue or Antonio's Cabaret
nestled on the bay.
Visitors and locals alike seek out the island atmosphere and live music at
Luau Larry's. Another local favorite for its pool tables, dartboards and one
of the best jukeboxes around is The Marlin Club. J.L.'s Locker Room is theisland's only sports bar with big screen TVs, pool and other games.
Hotels reinforce the romantic theme.
An old favorite built in 1888 is the 48-room Hotel Metropole, which offers
ocean, mountain or courtyard views. Rooms range from $135 to a pricey $895
for a two- bedroom apartment.
Whatever it
costs, and whether it's 26 miles or more across the
sea, Catalina Island for lovers and others remains."the place to be."
