Charleston, South Carolina

Written By David Wilkening

Travelers Digest

CHARLESTON, SC  --  This is a city of firsts: First decisive American victory during the Revolutionary War. First regularly scheduled passenger train service in America. First shot of the Civil War.

Charleston, founded in 1670, has more than three centuries of history, making it a natural for families with similar interests.

But, yes sir, this once tumultuous-city is also an obvious bulls-eye for visitors who are aficionados of military history.

Children will like the military history side of the city, which includes Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum. It's home to the famous (and immense) World War II aircraft carrier Yorktown, as well as other large ships such as destroyers and submarines.

Here also is something military-related you won't find anywhere else: The world's first submarine to sink an enemy ship in combat. It's the Confederate sub H. L. Hunley, which attacked and sank the U. S. S.Housatonic in the Atlantic ocean on Feb. 17, 1864.

On her way home, the ship disappeared in the dark sea. Her crew also went down. More than 136 years later, the ship was raised again in 2000. She wasbrought to the Warren Lasch Conservation Center.

The Citadel Museum on the Citadel Campus is also popular with all ages. It preserves the history of the military college from 1842 to the present with photographs, uniforms and archival documents. If you're here during the academic year, you might look for a Dress Parade by the South Carolina Corps of Cadets almost every Friday at 3:45 p.m.

The Confederate Museum contains flags, uniforms, swords and other Confederate memorabilia, and the Military Museum has hundreds of uniforms and artifacts displayed from all branches of the armed forces.

There are also historical forts. The best known is Fort Sumter National Monument, where the first shot of the Civil War was fired on the man-made, Union-occupied fort. Confederates occupied it and endured a dramatic two-year siege when 46,000 shells estimated at 7 million pounds were fired at the fort. Visitors today arrive by sightseeing yachts that have snack bars.

Charleston in some ways had a lucky turn of events that has led to its being perhaps the most preserved city in America, architecture and historically speaking.

After the Civil War, residents were too poor to remodel. So the city simply adapted the old buildings.

Tours are always a good way to orient yourself to an area. A good one here in part because of its choices is the "Best of Charleston," where options include carriage tours, harbor cruises, home tours and a tour of the patriot area, among others. The tours come with discounts to 14 restaurants and choices of tickets to other attractions.

There are also upwards of a dozen walking tours that include homes and gardens, ghosts who have passed through here and pirate-themed pathways.

One of the best is The Story of Charleston/Tour Charleston, LLC, with guides profiling the area's legendary personalities and recounting the impact of wars and disasters.

There are dozens of restored historical homes to tour, most with furnishings that show life in the early 1800s. Tour guides or docents are among the best I've ever seen, but It's questionable how many such homes will be tolerated by youngsters who want more action.

Other historical structures that may interest them more include the OldExchange and Provost Dungeon, where American patriots were held prisoner during the Revolutionary War.

The area is also well known for its gardens, parks and plantations. One of the most popular is Boone Hall Plantation & Gardens, which illustrates how cotton was grown. Adults will marvel at the majestic collection of moss-draped live oaks, one of the biggest anywhere in the south. Children will undoubtedly find the nine slave quarters, circa 1830, of at least some interest.

A good picnic park is White Point Garden, located along the Charleston Battery. Apparently inspired by the life-sized cannons, a common sight here is visiting children pretending they are fighting British soldiers.

A variety of attractive islands usually within 20 minutes of downtown are worth exploring. Kiawah Island, for one, has ten miles of beaches. Theisland abounds in natural beauty with endless acres of marsh and thick pine forests. The oceanfront Kiawah Island Inn is among housing choices or you can stay at a privately owned home, villa or cottage.

If you really want to get far from the crowd, a good choice is Folly Beach. This peaceful island, which might make you think you're in Hawaii or Bermuda, is full of rare birds, historical sites, fishing and surfing.

            Other things to do with kids include:

  • The South Carolina Aquarium, with more than 65 exhibits.

  • Angel Oak, a live oak tree thought to be 1,400 years old.

  • Azalea Park, with widening paths, bridges and streams to explore for
    fish, bugs and more.

  • The Carolina Ice Palace, one of the largest indoor ice skating
    facilities in the Southeast.

  • Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site, a 663-acre historic nature
    preserve that was the first permanent English settlement in the Carolinas
    (1630).

  • Splash Island, water sprays and waterfalls.

  • Frankie's Fun Park, miniature golf and go-karts.

When it comes to dining, Hyman's Seafood is rightly famous for its excellent food at low prices, but be warned: you have to wait for a table even at non-peak times. Routinely chosen the best seafood restaurant in the state, Hyman's usually offers up to 25 fish on its "daily board."

            For authentic local food, Diana's breakfast has a Cajun eye-opener, which is shrimp and crawfish etouffe served with creamy Carolina  stone ground grits. It's all topped with fried green tomatoes. More conservative diners can order an omelet.

            One of the best times to visit Charleston (perhaps THE best) is during the Holiday Festival of Lights. Held from November to early January, visitors can take a three-mile driving tour of the city ablaze with one million shimmering lights.

            But there's more than lights. Christmas is a magic time here, with a Holiday Village constructed by hand with 30 tons of sand. Gift shops and other Christmas-related displays are on hand.

            At the Winter Wonderland, there's an 18-animal carousel ride to whirl children around.

            All year round, children as well as adults will enjoy the view from the RoofTop Bar and Restaurant at the Vendue Inn. It overlooks the Charleston Harbor and the city's vast collection of rooftops and steeples.

            A lot of visitors make it a point to catch the sunset there.

            The Vendue Inn itself has charming rooms decorated with authentic antiques and 18th century reproductions. Some suites have gas fireplaces and marble baths.

            Rates are $164 to $295, all year-round, but if that sounds pricey, you might save some on rental cars. Bicycles are complimentary and the inn is within easy walking distance of many shops and restaurants in the city's historic district.

To visit Charleston on the web, click to www.historiccharleston.org, or call 843-723-1623.