An old, sleepy and tranquil village Satghara lies about 80 kilometres from
Lahore (20 minutes drive away from Okara) in the quiet backwaters of the
Punjab. The coins found at Satghara prove that the place was inhabited at
the time of the Kushan dynasty. The rule of Kushans was one of the most
decisive periods in the history of the Subcontinent. At the height in the
second century (A.D.), Kushans ruled from Oxus to Ganges and yet their
influence spread beyond even these frontiers. On the southern bank of the
Ravi, it is a typical Pakistani village where farmers live like rustics in
the face of urban attractions. Though off the beaten track, it has never
been out of limelight. Besides heritage conscious travellers from all over
the world, Baloch leaders and contemporary historians visit the
hamlet. Reasons: it is a "Tukia Nawab Chakar Ki" - last resting-place of Mir Chakar
Rind. Part of our history is buried here.
As per one account Mir Chakar Rind came to this village with seven
families, hence the name. Another legend has it that the village was named Satghara
because it was destroyed seven times by floods. Shah Abul Mo'ali, descendant
of sixteenth century saint Muhammad Ibrahim Daud-e-Sani Bandgi in his book
'Maqamat-e-Daudi' maintains that Satghara was known by the same name even
before the arrival of Mir Chakar Rind.
In Baloch history, the sixteenth century was a very eventful period. Baloch
fought series of wars amongst themselves. The result of these tribal
conflicts not only caused large-scale bloodshed but also resulted in their
mass migrations to the Punjab, Sindh and Gujrat (India).
One such immigrant, centre of Balochi love lore and war ballad, Mir Chakar
Rind is regarded as one of the great Baloch heroes. Born in 1468, Mir Chakar
Rind lived in Sevi (modern time Sibbi) in hills of Balochistan and became
the head of Rind tribe after his father Shiahak died. A natural leader and
warrior, Mir Chakar Rind was a man with resolute determination. In 1496, Mir
Chakar travelled to Hirat (Afghanistan) to muster support from Sultan Shah
Hussain. To prove his personal valour, he was made to fight a mad elephant
and ride a tough horse in Hirat. He succeeded in all these tests though
could not get the support. A class of Balochs even regards him having been
invested with saintly virtues and mystic powers.
Over a trifling mater - a Lashari youth butchered and roasted the
kid-kamels - Mir Chakar and Gwaharam, head of the Lashari tribe went to
war. Thousands of Rinds and Lasharis were killed in this war, and ballads that
still echo in hills of Balochistan and are part of Baloch oral
literature, commemorate the personal gallantry of the two heroes. After 'the thirty year
war' against Lasharis, he left Balochistan and came to live in the Punjab in
1518."
Why Chakar-e-Azam, as he was commonly known, preferred to settle in the
central Punjab, far away from Sibbi is not known. Once at Satghara, he
constructed a fortification wall around the village and burj
(watchtowers) in 15 squares Kilometres area encircling the fort for early warning against
impending dangers. In case of any threat, the guard on the watchtower would
light up fire, which will be spotted by the other guards and the news would
be communicated all around without delay. From one crumbling watchtower, I
could see miles of waving cops in all directions.
Settled in Satghara, Mir Chakar Rind became a regional force to recon
with. He was respected (and feared) in the area. Afghan King Sher Shah Suri
approached Mir Chakar Rind to join hands with him and help him consolidate
his gains. Mir Chakar Rind appreciated the situation and not only wisely
refused to help Sher Shah Suri but also managed to elude Afghan
armies. Instead, his forces under the able command of his son Mir Shahdad joined
Humayun when after a long exile in Persia Mughal emperor came back,
recaptured Delhi and ousted Afghan Suris in 1556. Emperor Humayun as a
reward conferred a vast Jagir (including horses and slaves) upon him. Mir
Chakar ruled this chieftaincy till he died at the ripe age in 1565.
It is the tomb and fort of Mir Chakar Rind - or whatever is left of them -
that curiously conscious and those interested in history come to see at
Satghara. The fort is large. Actually the wall once encircled the entire
village. Two gateways with flat bands and pointed arches still survive
though badly damaged due to ravages of time. The wooden door panels have
disappeared. With growth in population, the village has grown and spilled
out of encircling wall long ago. Standing at a vantage point one can still
feel antiquity permeating from the cluster of mud and brick houses inside
the fortification wall. In some houses, one can see mythological and
thematic murals of the Hindu period. On the periphery, the classical mud
houses look nice.
Constructed of narrow red bricks, used in upright courses to ensure
additional strength, the wall is 25 feet high and three feet thick. Some of
its salient portions exist between the tomb and the first gateway. Despite
the salinity and cracks creeping up the wall, the architectural feast seems
to re-echo to the past memories.
Beside one of the doorways, a sign has been posted announcing that the
Archaeology Department protects the site. How seriously the 'warning
sign' has been taken by the villagers can be seen all over the village. Red thin
bricks excavated from the centuries old monument are found used in many
spanking new houses in the village. At places the villagers have utilized
the fortification wall as part of their houses. Major portion of the wall
and what would have been the living quarters of the family of Mir Chakar
Rind have been lost. The courtyard of the tomb has shrunk due to
encroachments and presently it is being used as Shamlat deh
(community centre) for keeping the animals and elders to sit under the shadow of big
pipal tree during lazy summer afternoons.
The followers who had accompanied Mir Chakar Rind to Satghara built the tomb
after death of the hero. Today there is not a single Baloch living in the
village. The neglected tomb is dilapidated and the surviving history is
falling fast into decay.
The main chamber of the once majestic and imposing tomb is octagonal in
plan. The roof, decorative work and plaster have vanished. Cracks have
snaked in all direction on the walls. The rainy water gathers in the
roofless main chamber and stays there till sun dries it. The water is
destroying the foundations of the crumbling edifice, which is gradually
sinking in ground. There are seven rough mud graves inside the chamber. A
small tablet distinguishes the central grave. It reads: Akhari
Aaramgah, MirChakar (Khan) Rind, Satghara, Okara, Munjanib Yong Baloch Welfare
Society, Ravi Road, Lahore. Even the name of the great hero on the tablet is not
written correctly - having word Khan inserted quite
unnecessarily. Similarly, the large plaque placed by the Archaeology Department needs
improvement.
The tomb was desecrated and its roof demolished by Maharaja Ranjit Singh
who, on his way to Multan to fight against Nawab Muzafar, had stayed in
Satghara about 150 years ago. It has never been repaired ever
since. Governments, Archaeology Departments, visitors from all walks of life,
police (there is a police station in the village), district
administration, locals or Balochs, no body seems to be concerned about the state of this
important monument.
If one wants to absorb the sense of history, Satghara is a place to
visit. One has to possess a sensibility shaped in granite not to be moved by the
relics of past age, the monument of departed greatness belonging to a
celebrated hero who now rests helpless and neglected in this silent place,
far removed from the noisy haunts of men. The first impact that this
monument gives is an emotional one, for it is a sign of identity and a part
of our history. It also has architectural, documentary, spiritual and
symbolic values. In the vicinity, a few van (salvadora) trees may be as old
as the relics, stand witness to the bygone era. Swooping and cooing wild
fowls and running squirrels also testify to the continuity of the human
habitation in the area.
Though not mentioned in the touristy literature, yet travellers who come to
see the ruins in Harrappa (about 40 kilometres from Satghara) make to this
monument village: to study the history, architecture and culture of the time
when the monuments were built. The remains of the monument have to be
preserved and saved from ruination, a danger they are facing at present.
Presently, in Pakistan the Antiquities Act 1975 and Punjab special
(Preservation) ordinance 1985 are only two pieces of legislation for the
protection of our built heritage. So far there is no concept or legislation
for "Area protection". In this case, the entire village should be given
protected status. Federal and Punjab Archaeology Departments, Auqaf, Okara
District management and the Balochs should work together in order to
preserve this important part of our built heritage that seems hiding
thousands of the secrets of the past.
As I drove back on a single way metallic road, passing through blooming
fields of sunflower, plied mainly by animal transport and milkmen on the
motorbikes, I could not help thinking: Can the plight of the priceless sitebe brought to the echelons of power? Can some national or international
agency be moved to act and save the place for coming generations? We owe
them this!
