Palm Beach, Florida

Written By David Wilkening

Travelers Digest

PALM BEACH  -- Visiting here, you'll see a lot of Mercedes and Rolls-Royces, but don't expect to get them serviced in this city. Car dealerships are not allowed.

            Everyone agrees exclusive Palm Beach has changed in recent years, but it still has its touches of old money. It's the kind of place where the only supermarket in town has a resident sommelier to help choose
wines.

There are no funeral homes or cemeteries in Palm Beach, either. It's a place only for the living, but it's no longer limited to the rich. Anyone can go.

Palm Beach and the lesser-known, palm-lined beach towns that gave the area its name are easily recommended for all visitors.

For golfers, Palm Beach County is a haven with more than 150 courses (though, typically, only five are in the town of Palm Beach).

You might also take in a polo game while here, but to do it, you'll have to go to West Palm Beach, started a century ago to house workers for the wealthy. Polo is a winter event only, my dear, and you should know that the preferred drink is not beer but Pimm's Cup or champagne.

As you might expect, the Palm Beach area that includes 37 towns has its share of culture. There's no better example than the decade-old Kravis Center for the Performing Arts, which has a diverse schedule of musicals, modern dance, opera, classical, jazz and pop music performances. It draws almost a half a million people each year.

For eco-types, there are numerous scuba diving trips and more than 30 eco-tourism attractions. Jonathan Dickinson State Park is a fine place to hike. Visitors can canoe on the Loxahatchee River and camp in Florida's vast pinewood forests.

Palm Beach is known for The Breakers, the exclusive five-star oceanfront resort, but in recent years the area has also drawn its share of Best Westerns and Days' Inns. If you stay overnight, you'll find many of the hotels are reasonably priced. A small hotel, for example, the Studio 6 in West Palm Beach advertises room as low as $41 in the off-season.

Most of the nightlife found here is in West Palm Beach, where the once-blighted Clematis Street in downtown underwent a revival in the 199s.

Some recommended attractions in the Palm Beach area:

---City/Place, a 55-acre, $550 million shopping, entertainment and residential complex has vibrant streetscapes, plazas, fountains and outdoor terraces. There are ten restaurants and a 20-screen Muvico cinema.

---The Flagler Museum in Palm Beach offers a look at his personal railcar and has items from the Gilded Age when the rich came on down to South Florida via upscale trains.

---Dine outdoors at one of the many restaurants in West Palm Beach's Clematis Street, which is known for its mixture of energy, culture, arts, shopping, cafes, dance clubs and bistros. There's a real Irish pub feel at
Rooney's Public House.

---One of the county's best beaches is Atlantic Avenue in Delray Beach, which also offers many open-air cafes, coffeehouses, eateries and shops. More upscale food is available at Dakotah 624 and 32 East.

---The Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach is a home for many famous artists. You'll find some familiar names here such as Monet, Gaugin, Picasso, Cézanne, Bellows, O'Keefe, Hopper and Pollack.

---Restaurants, cafes and a multiplex theater surround the Mediterranean-style Mizner Park in Boca Raton. Gourmet wine, bread and desserts can be bought here. Top it off at Steve and Edie's Ice Cream Shop.

---The Morikamo Museum and Japanese Gardens in Delray Beach is a 200-acre park dedicated to Japanese culture. It has nature trails, ponds, waterfalls, bonsai garden and a teahouse, among other attractions.

----Visitors can watch candy being made weekdays at Hoffman's Chocolate Shoppe & Gardens in Lake Worth. Over 70 varies of candy are made here. Visitors can also stroll through a lush tropical garden.

---Lion Country Safari has two parks with a 4.2-mile drive where visitors can see more than 1,000 roaming animals. There's also boat tours and bird feeding.

---Mounts Botanical Garden in West Palm Beach is the county's oldest public garden. You can stroll through 13 acres of exotic tree and plants and a rainforest area.

---The National Croquet Center is the world's largest croquet complex and is the headquarters of the national association. There's a restaurant on-site.

---Bet on year-round Greyhound racing at the Palm Beach Kennel Club and Entertainment Complex. Stud and draw games are offered in the Poker Room. The food is upscale at the Paddock Restaurant.

Some must-sees:

----Palm Beach's Worth Avenue, the world-famous Rodeo-Drive of the East Coast. Look for celebrities to hang out here, mingling with millionaires and everyday visitors amidst an Old World Décor. There are more than 200 shops with familiar names such as Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany and Saks Fifth Avenue. There's gourmet dining at Bice, Renato's and Ta-Boo.

---The Gulfstream Polo Club in Lake Worth.

---The Museum of Ragtops in Palm Beach is a three building complex that has autos dating back to 1927.

---The Loxahatchee Everglades Tours. An airboat ride shows how Florida used to be.

---The historic Jupiter Island Lighthouse in Jupiter.

---Take a ride on the Palm Beach Water Taxis, which have daily narrated sightseeing, nature, sunset and moonlight cruises. Shuttle service runs from downtown west Palm to Singer Island and other areas.

---And The Breakers, a touch of elegance.

A good time to go:

The winter, of course, which is the case throughout Florida. But keep in mind that from mid-April to mid-December, the county promotes Value Season. Many hotels reduce rates and participate in the "Seventh Night Free" program. There are free outdoor concerts and festivals throughout thecounty.

Keep also in mind that there's are a dozen members of the Palm Beach County Bed & Breakfast Association (www.bedandbreakfastpalmbeach.com) available.

People who have called this place home include Donald Trump, Rush Limbaugh, Jimmy Buffett and Roxanne Pulitzer. You can try to see their homes, but good luck, because most of them are like Donald Trump's Mar-a-Lago estate  --  hidden behind high walls or hedges.

            If it's any consolation, you can visit Green's Drug Store where John F. Kennedy bought his newspapers.